Fernando Pereira: Ski

Belated Chile trip report

Mon, 11 Sep 2006 01:52:21 GMT

From August 19 to September 1st, I traveled to Chile to ski and to climb some volcanos with CASA Tours. I've done three ski trips to South America in the last three years, and each had great high points, but this trip was the best so far: an exceptionally congenial, hard-charging group, great weather for climbing, mind-blowing views, superb spring skiing, and smooth travel. The map shows the core of the trip, and a photo page gives more details.

Volcanoes on Google Earth

Tue, 13 Jun 2006 02:45:55 GMT

I was playing with Google Earth to locate the Chilean volcanos I'm hoping to climb and ski this August, the Nevados de Chillán complex (for the second time), Villarrica, and Lonquimay, when I found a reference to a wonderful layer file from the Smithsonian with all the known Holocene volcanoes. Detailed coordinates, elevations, pictures, and summary geology and eruptive history. Dangerously addictive.

Snow Falling on Skiers

Sat, 11 Mar 2006 15:02:11 GMT

Finally, a general interest publication, the New York Times, publishes a realistic discussion of backcountry avalanche risks, by Jill Fredston. I wrote the following letter to the Times (the odds on publication are low, of course):

Ms. Fredston's gives an excellent account of how backcountry travelers get in trouble by letting their wishes color their risk assessment. It is worth adding that most ski magazines and movies foster unreasonable expectations in new backcountry skiers by only showing glorious powder runs, when in fact deep powder is often associated with the highest slide danger, and good travel practice may well demand that we ski less exciting but more stable terrain. The fantasy of scoring the steepest, deepest run distorts and endangers the less-fashionable rewards of being out there with like-minded friends living with nature in her own terms.

Dreaming of beautiful peaks

Wed, 08 Mar 2006 18:01:28 GMT

My knee injury from last summer in Argentina (hitting powder-covered rock-solid debris in Cerro Bayo) seems finally on the mend after a successful operation. This week is Spring break at Penn. I skied in wonderful places, including Alpine glaciers and the Tioga Pass backcountry, the last four Spring breaks, but the knee is not ready for serious use yet. So I dream of this summer in South America, maybe climb the stunning Nevados de Chillán again.

Spearhead Glacier

Sat, 24 Dec 2005 20:55:35 GMT

While in Whistler between the NIPS workshops and a meeting in Seattle, I took a day tour in the area of the Spearhead Glacier, guided by ACMG mountain guide Chris Lawrence working that day for the Whistler Alpine Guides Bureau. The day was cold. Ongoing snow squalls impaired visibility but laid a couple of inches of nice fluff on top of mostly windpacked snow. The picture shows a view of the glacier from one of the cols we climbed (more pictures). The bleak landscape offers an intense contrast with the lush coastal forest around Whistler, and with the shopping mall atmosphere of Whistler Village just a few miles away. It's a cliché, but I felt really small on the rock and ice of the Spearhead, crawling along on skis or scrambling up crumbling ridges to reach various cols.

The counter-clockwise route is sketched approximately on the topo map fragment. We went from the Blowhole at the top of the Showcase T-bar to the Blackcomb glacier road via a traverse along the top of the Blackcomb glacier, a skin up to a col behind Blackcomb mountain, a short drop and traverse to a scramble to another col (on the Spearhead ridge above the glacier, I believe), a ski down avoiding a few crevasses, skin up to another col (with a fortunately idle helipad, thanks to the bad weather), a nice descent down to the glacier on the new fluff, still carefully avoiding crevasses, a skin up to a steep snow slope, bootpacking and rapeling the rest to the col above Corona bowl, descending the nice snow at the top of Corona Bowl, and then side-slipping, scrambling, and glacial gravel/dirty snow skiing down to the Blackcomb glacier road, for a long traverse back to the Blackcomb gondola mid-station for downloading. Round trip time, with breaks, around six hours.

live weather feeds + google maps

Sun, 06 Nov 2005 21:35:49 GMT

live weather feeds + google maps: weatherbonk (Via tingilinde.)

This is more useful: Ski Bonk.

Argentina's lake region

Sat, 13 Aug 2005 22:11:55 GMT

I came back last Tuesday from a trip to the ski areas of the lakes region of Southern Argentina. It was stormy, snowy, deep powder in the trees. These two pictures show just a bit of the old and newer volcanos, spiky ridges,long glacial lakes, and forests of beautiful Patagonian species. The mountains are not huge, with peaks rising to 2000-2500m, but the intricacy of the landscape, the variety of the light, the almost constant presence of water views, make the area, maybe not the most imposing, but certainly the most visually exciting terrain I've ever skied. More pictures here.

Language: the anti-beer?

Sat, 23 Apr 2005 23:20:08 GMT

Language: the anti-beer?: According to BlogPulse's 'Trend Search', 'language' is negatively correlated with 'beer':...(Via Language Log.)

I am more interested in this graph. Skiing in California and Utah was great in March and early April. Why give up so soon?

Dana Couloir

Sun, 20 Mar 2005 22:37:29 GMT

With my friends Sabine and Stefan from San Francisco, I went back to Tioga Pass Resort March 6-9, during Penn's spring break. The highlight of the trip was a ski ascent and descent of Mount Dana (13,057 ft), which sits on the border between the Ansel Adams Wilderness and Yosemite National Park on the Eastern Sierra, Southwest of Mono Lake. The day was warm, sunny, calm. We started the ascent at the gaging station just North of Tioga Lake by Tioga Pass Road close to the Eastern entrance of the park. We skinned South through conifer forest (thanks for the shade) to a series of steep climbs along the Northwest ridge of Dana. The snow on the ridge was wind scoured, icy in many places and deeply rutted in others. Ski crampons came in very handy. It got rather hot on the last 1,000 ft of climbing. After a lunch and photo break at the summit, we skied down the mostly well-covered Eastern face of the summit to Dana Couloir (diagonal snow strip at the lower left in the picture), which was filled with variable but very skiable wind-packed powder with a strip of soft avalanche debris from a skier-triggered slide (fortunately without victims) three weeks before. From the bottom of the 40 degree couloir, we followed Glacier Canyon back to our start point and finally to the lodge in good time for a much-needed, delicious dinner. More photos here.

Canadian Rockies

Sun, 27 Feb 2005 02:35:59 GMT

Last Sunday I returned from a memorable week traveling in the Canadian Rockies with a group guided by Mike Taylor of CASA Tours from Calgary to Golden to Banff to Fernie and back to Calgary for the return flight, skiing on the Purcell range with Purcell Helicopter Skiing, and at Kicking Horse, Lake Louise, Sunshine, and Fernie. So it had been a bit dry, and it didn't dump powder when we were there. But the skiing was still very good, steep, scenic, almost always uncrowded. The heli day was sweet, but my favorite was the somewhat scary Delirium Dive at Sunshine. Banff is predictably touristy and expensive, but the surrounding landscape swamps the kitsch. Golden and Fernie are more congenial, two old mountain towns that don't yet take themselves too seriously. More pictures here.

A day tour

Sun, 16 Jan 2005 00:58:40 GMT

Terry and I toured from Tioga Pass Resort to Yosemite's East Tioga Pass gate, and then climbed the saddle south of Gaylor Peak, west of the pass. This photo shows Mount Dana with Lion's Head at the lower left. Notice the many avalanche chutes in the trees on the lower apron. The higher West-facing slopes on Dana get a lot of wind and thus a thin and weak snow pack that slides easily. The East-facing slope below us isn't that steep (25 degrees or so), not too wind-loaded, and so relatively safe. It had beautiful snow that afforded a sweet if short run.

Back from skiing

Sun, 16 Jan 2005 00:32:28 GMT

I got back from the Sierra Nevada last Sunday, but I've been too busy catching up with work to post anything. As everyone knows from the weather hype in the news, Dec 31-Jan 10's snowfall in the Sierra was out of the ordinary. However, it was possible to move around if you took your time and chose your route carefully. Still, the highlight of the trip, a stay at Tioga Pass Resort, was shortened at the start because a localized storm made it too dangerous to go up for one day, and at the end because a new big storm was coming in and we didn't want to get trapped. Still, we got two beautiful cold sunny days at Tioga Pass in the middle, as well as excellent powder skiing in Tahoe ski areas at both ends.

Gone skiing

Fri, 31 Dec 2004 04:31:15 GMT

Leaving in the morning to Reno, for a few days of Tahoe skiing followed by four days in Eastern Sierra backcountry at Tioga Pass Resort. That is, if the big storms hitting the Sierra do not block access to the lodge. In which case we'll have to stay in lift-served terrain at Tahoe or Mammoth. Not a bad fate.

Snow Sliding Tunes

Thu, 30 Dec 2004 19:49:34 GMT

This would work for powder skiing too. Except that I like to have my hearing unencumbered when it is steep and deep.

Welcome to RealClimate

Fri, 10 Dec 2004 12:31:19 GMT

Welcome to RealClimate: Climate science is one of those fields where anyone, regardless of their lack of expertise or understanding, feels qualified to comment on new papers and ongoing controversies. his can be frustrating for scientists like ourselves who see agenda-driven ‘commentary’ on the Internet and in the opinion columns of newspapers crowding out careful analysis.

(Via Talking Points Memo.)

Walking May Ward Off Alzheimer's (AP)

Wed, 22 Sep 2004 03:04:39 GMT

Walking May Ward Off Alzheimer's (AP): "AP - Walking regularly at age 70 and beyond can help keep the mind sharp and ward off Alzheimer's disease, according to research suggesting that what is good for the heart is also good for the brain." (Via Yahoo! News - Top Stories.) Walking? What about skiing? Let's get our priorities right, researchers.

Sunset on the road from Valle Nevado

Sun, 19 Sep 2004 21:07:28 GMT

This another favorite picture, from the minibus driving down to Santiago from Valle Nevado at the end of the second day of our trip. The huge volcanic crest to our Southeast was infused with evening sunlight, hinting at an almost Martian landscape.

Moonset over Santiago

Sun, 19 Sep 2004 20:52:31 GMT

Among the pictures I was able to take in Chile before my Nikon Coolpix 775 failed with a "System error" that I can't fix, this is one of my favorites. I woke up early our first morning in Farellones, as the city lights of Santiago started to turn off and disappear under the blanket of winter smog. The full moon was setting over the Western sky. I experimented with making it lighter with Photoshop, but the original dark cast reflects better the low dawn light, before the huge shadows of the Andes crest behind me started lifting.

Long hiatus

Fri, 17 Sep 2004 04:18:11 GMT

Since the last posting, I was in Chile for a mind-blowing ski trip, and got back right before the beginning of the semester, in which I am teaching a new version of our freshman programming class. And getting the research semester off to a good start with current and new graduate students. And many other work obligations. No time left for writing here. But I had to post at least this picture (taken by Rob Rouse of my tour group) of Derek (also from the tour group) and me skinning up Volcán Chillán. On the trip, I heard Manu Chao's Clandestino for the first time (thanks, Sarah!). And I read Ian McEwan's Atonement (which I liked far better than his earlier Amsterdam) waiting for flights, on planes, and on the bus. As if the skiing, the company, the food, and the wine had not been enough!

A wonderful life

Fri, 18 Jun 2004 00:30:14 GMT

The Scotsman (and several other papers): Inderbinen said one of the best periods of his life came after his 80th birthday, when he started competing in skiing races for fun. He always won as he was the only competitor in his age category. He was given a pair of skis for his 90th birthday - a gift he put to regular use - and a mountain-climbing ice axe when he turned 95.

Baffin Island

Thu, 17 Jun 2004 14:32:16 GMT

If you felt that your Spring was boring, here's how it could have been a bit more exciting. Andrew, who I've met through skiing connections, knows how to have an interesting time in the most horrendous conditions. More interesting than most of us would ever ask or be prepared for.

a good product gone wrong

Wed, 14 Apr 2004 12:36:20 GMT

Transparent duct tape - I haven't used it (someone mentioned it last night and a search of the 3M site turned it up). Somehow this seems wrong. It may work wonderfully, but ugly duct tape is a badge of honor. [tingilinde] Duct tape is a crucial fashion accessory for the hardcore skier. Wind it around your (extensible, of course) ski poles so that you have a stash for emergencies (you are prepared!). Use it to patch pants ripped on some heinously rocky slope, jacket speared by a treacherous tree branch, or gloves cut by sharp metal edges. For extra fashion points, telemarkers use it to fix binding malfunctions. Transparent tape would just not do.

global warming vs the ski industry

Sat, 21 Feb 2004 21:50:00 GMT

It was interesting running across this newspaper article on the possible demise of the ski industry in Utah as a function of global warming.[tingilinde] The ski areas mentioned in the article as involved in lobbying efforts are the ones at lowest elevations in Utah. That makes sense, except that they are likely to be the ones that use most energy because of snowmaking. Snowmaking requires a lot of energy to pump water and compress air for the snow guns. Also, some of those areas (Park City, Deer Valley, Canyons) have the largest real estate developments, again not the best way to save energy, as many of those houses and condos are oversized and have huge windows for fashion's sake. It is well known that most ski areas focus on real estate anyway, so their pleadings are mighty suspect. On my backcountry outing in Utah last month, I noticed again the contrast between the overbuild, low-elevation Park City and Canyons, which were not located for the best snow conditions anyway, and higher-elevation, wilder areas like Solitude and Alta. Finally, the high-elevation areas there as well as most areas in Tahoe close in the Spring for lack of customers, not lack of snow. In summary, of course global warming is a matter of grave concern for everyone and not only for skiers, but the these ski areas are not the most convincing advocates for action given the contradictions between their words and their actions.

Catching up: Alta backcountry

Mon, 16 Feb 2004 02:04:54 GMT

Three weeks ago, but it feels more like a century ago because the press of work and one of the worst colds I've had in many years, I spent a few days at the Goldminer's Daughter at Alta. The highlights of the trip were a day backcountry trip to Solitude and back with Russ that found some really nice snow even after two weeks of drought, and then a storm that made Alta very nice for the next two days. The picture shows Russ finishing East Bowl on the North side of Davenport Hill. Yes, it was a bit tracked for backcountry, but there were still some untouched turns higher up on yummy sugar snow. I want to go skiing again!

Catching up: Tioga Pass

Sun, 25 Jan 2004 21:22:34 GMT

Demanding uphill (start from 9,600 ft to 12k), occasionally demanding snow (nasty wind pack, wet powder). But amazing sights, memorable powder turns in the trees, great company, excellent food and lodge staff. I'll be back. Terry took great pictures (his site is down, I'll edit in the link when it gets back up). If you are wondering about my awful skiing stance, yes, I was struggling on the wavy, grabby, rock studded windpack.