Muskoka Hardwood Flooring Installation

Muskoka Hardwoods

Prior to the installation of this hardwood flooring product, the installer must determine that the job site environment and the sub-surfaces involved are suitable. Tembec declines any responsibility for product failure resulting from or associated with subsurface or job site environment deficiencies. If you have any questions regarding the product or installation procedures, please contact ArtWalk Tile (service@artwalktile.com).

[ A PDF version of this document can also be downloaded from Muskoka Installation Guide. ]

GENERAL SITE INSPECTION


HUMIDITY


Building interiors are affected by two distinct humidity seasons - Heating and Non-Heating. Recognizing that wood floor dimensions will be slightly affected by varying levels of humidity in your building, take care to control humidity levels withing the 40-55% range. During the heating season, a humidifier is recommended to prevent excess shrinkage to the wood floors due to low humidity levels. To avoid excessive gapping or splitting in the heating season, a humidifier may be required to sustain greater than 40% humidity levels. During the non-heating season, humidity levels can be maintained by using an air conditioner, dehumidifier, or by turning on your heating system periodically during the summer months. Avoid excesive exposure to water from tracking during periods of inclement weather.

ACCLIMATIZATION


Your hardwood flooring must undergo an acclimatization period (i.e. it must be stored in the room where it will be laid) for at least 72 hours prior to installation. The bundles must be opened completely and the hardwood laid flat on the subfloor.

Note: Wider boards are more susceptible to moisture. Tembec takes every precaution to minimize these effects through careful conditioning and equalization of the wood to tight tolerances in moisture content.

INSTALLATION



Tools Required:

Important: Using a broom and vacuum keep the floor free of dirt and sawdust at all times during the installation procedure. If manufacturing defects are noticed, STOP INSTALLATION IMMEDIATELY and contact your dealer or distributor for guidance.

  1. The first strip should be laid next to the longest wall, at right angles to the joists. Mark its position with the chalk line, allowing an expansion space of 1/2? to 3/4? (13 to 19mm) between the first flooring strip and the wall. The first row of strips will be laid along this chalk line. Do not follow the wall, since walls are rarely completely straight or true.
     The first strip should be laid next to the longest wall...
  2. An expansion space is required only when a wall or other vertical obstruction such as a fireplace, posts, etc. is parallel to the direction of the flooring. Expansion spaces are not necessary at the end of each row of strips.
  3. Face nail the first strip after drilling holes every 8? to 12? (20 to 30cm), at a distance of 1/2? (13mm) from the edge of the strip next to the wall. Be careful not to drill a hole at a distance of less then 3? (8cm) from the end of the strip. Use #7 or #8 spiral nails to fasten the flooring, and countersink the nails with the nail punch. The first row of nails will be hidden by moldings. Repeat the nailing operation in the tongue of the strip, keeping the edge of the latter along the chalk line.Face mail the first strip after drilling  holes...
  4. Only nail the tongue of each subsequent strip. Do not face nail.
  5. Joints between the ends of strips in any given row should be offset at least 6? (15cm) from the end-joints in adjacent rows. This will ensure a balanced appearance.
    Joints between the ends of strips...
  6. After fastening a couple of rows of strips, use the hardwood flooring nailer. Use nails every 8" or 10" (20 to 25cm), stopping at a distance of about 2" (5cm) from the end of each strip.
    After a couple rows, you can use the hardwood flooring nailer...
  7. As you approach the final wall and can no longer use the automatic nailer, return to nailing the tongues by hand. Wedge the last row into place with a prybar.
  8. Cut the last row lengthwise to fit, allowing for the required expansion space and molding coverage. Face nail the last row.
  9. Countersink and putty all face nails with a matching wood filler.
  10. Cover the expansion space along walls with moldings. Make sure to drive the nails into the wall, not into the hardwood flooring. Nailing the molding to the flooring restricts the expansion space.
    Cover expansion spaces with mouldings along walls...