The Virtual Supper Club – October Edition

I’ve been cooking for a while. A long while. And from time to time I have to face up to the cooking habits that are hiding somewhere under the instinctive, intuitive routines that I go through in my kitchen. Actually, when I’m in anyone’s kitchen. The arrival of autumn’s calling cards in the markets has me thinking about my cooking habits… why I like to cook, and especially how I like to cook. For me, it’s usually about the essential flavors a recipe is built on. Sometimes it’s about technique, or a special ingredient, but even then it still comes down to building a dish around the essential flavors. Without that, meals would be just ordinary. I’ve always wanted something more.

This month’s menu is meant to gather some of autumn’s early essential flavors into a hearty and satisfying meal. The menu, though basic – a simple salad, a creamy risotto and a fruit dessert – have a common thread: a special method or technique to elevate the flavor of the essential ingredients. By doing so, each course is transformed into something memorable. There may be an extra step or two in some of the recipes, but this small sacrifice of time in preparation pays off big in the results.

And, so….
Won’t you join me in preparing this month’s menu where the ordinary is transformed into the extraordinary, and a new season of delicious food is flavorfully ushered in.

The Virtual Supper Club October Menu:
Bosc Pear Carpaccio with Microgreens, Pecorino Romano, and Balsamico Tradizionale
Butternut Squash Risotto, Maple-Smoked Bacon, and Sage served with
    Roasted pork or chicken; or Duck Confit
Caramelized Oranges
Wine Selection:
Frogs Leap, Merlot – 1999 or Blackstone 2000 Merlot, Napa Valley

The salad and risotto recipes are from chef, Alfred Portale, who’s style is consummate with capturing and elevating flavor. For dessert, I’ve reprinted a recipe from Susan Herrmann Loomis, which the original Virtual Supper Club prepared while together On Rue Tatin.

For a wine offering, I tried to come up with one wine that might work through the whole meal. Though difficult, I’ve picked two Merlots – both from California that might just do the trick.

Merlot tends to be rather soft and fruity with very slight tannins. Although the Merlot grape has great attributes, it also excels when blended with other grapes, usually Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Given a loophole in California Wine Labeling Laws, a wine can be labeled Merlot and still contain up to 25% other grapes, whereas in other countries, it is 100% or nothing. For comparison, the first wine, the Frogs Leap 1999, is 100% Merlot; the Blackstone 2000 Napa Valley Merlot, is blended with a small percentage of Syrah.

Frogs Leap, 1999 Winemaker Comments: Our 1999 Merlot reflects the great individual complexity of vineyards from three different parts of the Valley: Rutherford, Yountville and Carneros. For the first time in nearly a decade of producing Merlot, our 1999 blend is comprised of 100% Merlot fruit. The purity of the Merlot with its inherent aromatics supported by firm structure, good acidity and silky lingering finish.

Blackstone 2000 Merlot, Napa Valley Winery Comments: This wine was aged in French, American and Eastern European oak barrels for 15 months. A small portion of Syrah grapes was blended in for enhanced fruit characteristics. The 2000 Napa Valley Merlot has attractive aromas of vanilla and toasted chestnuts wrapped around bright cherry, ripe raspberry and exotic spice fragrances. The silky, smooth palate is lusciously textured with cherry and berry flavors. This wine has wonderful length and a supple, elegant finish.

Recipes
Bosc Pear Carpaccio with Microgreens, Pecorino Romano, and Balsamico Tradizionale
© 2000 Alfred Portale, from Twelve Seasons Cookbook
Makes 4 Servings

The recipe calls for aged balsamic vinegar, a potent elixir that delivers a complex range of sweetness and acidity and should be used sparingly because of its power and its value. When purchasing balsamic vinegar, be sure the label bears the full designation, Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena. (This means it is produced in the town of Modena, the home of balsamic vinegar, though a few are also produced in the vicinity of Reggio.) A different, or abbreviated name usually indicates a lesser-quality vinegar with sugar or caramel added to imitate the effect of the real thing.

Special Equipment: Mandoline-type slicer
ripe Bosc pears
¼ cup extra virgin olive oil
4 teaspoons 25-year-old Balsamico Tradizionale vinegar
Coarse salt and freshly ground white pepper to taste
4 cups loosely packed microgreens
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
4 ounces Pecorino Romano cheese, in one piece

Halve the pears lengthwise and remove the core with a small scoop. Using a thin-bladed knife or a Japanese-style mandoline, slice the pear halves 1/8 inch thick. Fan each pear half on a chilled dinner plate.

Drizzle the pears with 1 tablespoon of the olive oil and the balsamic vinegar. Season them lightly with salt and pepper.

In a small bowl, toss the greens with the remaining 3 tablespoons of olive oil and the lemon juice. Season them with salt and pepper. Arrange a bouquet of greens on top of each pear half.

Using a vegetable peeler, finish each plate with curls of Pecorino Romano. Serve Immediately.

Variations: A blue cheese, such as Roquefort or Gorgonzola, will work brilliantly here in place of the Pecorino Romano. The sweetness of the pears and the balsamic vinegar will match the saltiness of the cheese bite for bite. Also, while Bosc pears are recommended for their crispiness and reliability, other pears, such as Bartlett and Anjou, will work well, too.

If you’re not using balsamic vinegar, substitute a mixture of 1 teaspoon red wine vinegar and 3 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil, which will soften the vinegar, taking the edge off its acidity.

Flavor Building: Thinly sliced prosciutto di Parma (4 ounces), toasted walnut halves, or Duck Confit (see recipe below), all complement the flavors of this dish.

Butternut Squash Risotto, Maple-Smoked Bacon, and Sage
© 1997 Alfred Portale, from Gotham Bar and Grill cookbook
Makes 6 Appetizer or 4 Main-Course Servings

Based on a Venetian holiday recipe, this risotto boasts a rare and invigorating combination of ingredients both to welcome and combat the chill of the season. Part of the recipe’s impact derives from the spiced butter that finishes it with a powerful dose of garlic, chervil, marjoram, cinnamon, and ginger. But there’s an equally important step that’s worth noting here: Many risotto recipes cook all the ingredients into the rice, but the success of this dish depends on not doing this, but adding the squash at the end to keep its flavor isolated and allow each bite to bring a different sensation to the palate. To achieve this effect, it’s absolutely essential that the delicate, caramelized squash cubes be stirred as gently as possible just prior to serving. Not only does this preserve the squash’s flavor, but the orange cubes will punctuate the risotto with dazzling bursts of color.

Thinking ahead: The spiced butter may be prepared up to 8 hours in advance, covered and refrigerated. The caramelized squash may be prepared as much as 1 hour in advance, covered and held at room temperature.

Spiced Butter
8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature
4 tablespoons Roasted Garlic Puree (recipe follows)
2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh chervil
1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh marjoram
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
¼ teaspoon ground ginger
Coarse salt and freshly ground white pepper to taste

In a small bowl, combine all the ingredients. Cover and set aside at room temperature.

Caramelized Squash
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 large (2-pound) butternut squash, peeled, seeded, and cut into ¾-inch cubes
Coarse salt and freshly ground white pepper to taste
2 teaspoons light brown sugar

In a large sauté pan, melt the butter over medium heat. Season the squash with salt and pepper, add it to the pan, and cook, stirring occasionally, until nicely browned, about 6 minutes. Cover and cook until tender, about 5 minutes. Add the brown sugar and cook until the squash is caramelized, but still holding shape, about 2 minutes. Set aside.

Risotto Assembly
About 2 quarts Double Turkey Stock (recipe follows)
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 ounces slab bacon, preferably maple-smoked, cut into ½-inch dice
1 cup minced shallots or onions
1 pound Italian rice, preferably Vialone Nano, if available, or arborio
1 teaspoon chopped fresh sage
¼ teaspoon fresh thyme leaves
½ cup dry white wine
2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
Coarse salt and freshly ground white pepper to taste

In a large saucepan, bring the stock to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat and keep hot on a very low flame.

In a large heavy-bottomed saucepan, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the bacon and cook until lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Add the shallots and cook, stirring often, until softened, about 3 minutes.

Reduce the heat to medium-low. Stir in the rice, sage, and thyme. Cook, stirring with a wooden spoon, until the rice is coated, has released its starch, turns a milky opaque white, and begins to stick to the bottom of the pan, 7 to 10 minutes. Add the wine and boil until completely reduced, 2 to 3 minutes. Ladle about 1 cup of the simmering stock in to the rice. Cook, stirring often, until the stock is almost completely absorbed by the rice. Continue cooking and stirring, adding another cup of stock only when the previous addition has been absorbed. After 15 minutes, begin tasting the rice. At this point, add the remaining stock judiciously. The rice should be firm, yet cooked through in 18 to 20 minutes total cooking time.

Stir in the spiced butter and the parsley, and season with salt and pepper, then gently fold in the squash cubes, keeping them as intact as possible. Transfer the risotto to warmed bowls and serve immediately.

Roasted Garlic
Makes 20 Roasted Garlic Cloves

Slow-roasting mellows and sweetens the impact of raw garlic and transforms it into a versatile ingredient, allowing cooks to add a subtle wave of garlic flavor to butters, oils, soups, vinaigrettes, and sauces.

Thinking Ahead: Roasted garlic may be prepared up to 2 days in advance, covered, and refrigerated.

20 large garlic cloves, unpeeled (choose fresh heads of garlic that are firm and not sprouting)
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon water
Coarse salt and freshly ground white pepper to taste

Preheat the over to 325°F. Place the garlic in a small baking dish and toss with the oil, water, salt, and pepper. Cover with aluminum foil and bake until the garlic is tender (squeeze a clove to check), 25 to 35 minutes.

Double Turkey Stock
Makes about 1 ½ Quarts

Thinking ahead: The stock may be prepared up to 3 days in advance, cooled, covered, and refrigerated; or it can be frozen for up to 3 months.

3 pounds turkey wings, chopped into 2-inch pieces
2 quarts chicken stock
3 cups water, or as needed
½ cup chopped onion
¼ cup chopped celery
¼ cup chopped carrot
3 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed
2 sprigs of thyme
2 sprigs flat-leaf parsley
1 teaspoon whole black peppercorns

Place the turkey wings and stock in a large stockpot, and add enough cold water to cover by 2 inches. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, skimming off any foam that rises to the surface. Add the remaining ingredients. Reduce the heat to low and simmer the stock until well-flavored, 3 to 4 hours.

Strain the stock into a large bowl, and cool completely. Skim off and discard the clear yellow fat that rises to the surface. Or, refrigerate the stock until the fat chills, about 4 hours, then scrap the fat off with a large spoon.

Duck Confit
© 2000 Alfred Portale, from Twelve Seasons Cookbook
Makes 6 Appetizer or 4 Main-Course Servings

Thinking ahead: The confit must be started 3 days in advance but can be preserved in the refrigerator in its fat for several weeks.

Duck Confit
1 shallot, sliced
6 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
3 bay leaves
3 sprigs thyme
1 teaspoon crushed black pepper
1 tablespoon coarse salt
4 duck legs
3 pounds duck fat

In a dish large enough to hold the duck legs in a single layer, sprinkle half the shallot, garlic, bay leaves, thyme, pepper, and salt. Lay the duck legs on top and sprinkle them with the remaining herbs and spices. Cover the dish tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 24 to 48 hours to marinate.

In a medium pot, melt the duck fat over low heat. You will have about 7 cups.

Remove the duck legs from the marinade and place them in a deep casserole or 4-quart stockpot. Ladle in enough melted duck fat to cover the duck legs completely. Cook over low heat for 3 ½ to 4 hours, taking care the fat does not boil but remains just below a simmer. It should barely bubble, and the temperature, gauged with a deep-fat thermometer, should register around 185°F.

When the meat is very tender, nearly falling off the bone, transfer the legs to a dish. Strain the duck fat over the duck, adding any additional fat you did not use for cooking. Set aside to cool. When cool, cover and refrigerate until ready to use.

Preheat the over to 400°F.

Remove the duck legs from the refrigerator. Measure 1 cup of fat from the dish and heat it in an ovenproof, 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until melted. Lift the duck legs from the remaining fat and lay them in the hot fat, skin side down. The fat should come about 1/3 inch up the sides of the legs. If not, add more fat. Raise the heat and cook for about 6 minutes, until the skin turns brown. Do not turn the legs over.

Put the skillet in the oven and roast the duck legs for about 15 minutes, until the skin is crisp and the meat is heated through. Remove the legs from the pan and transfer them to a cutting board.

When cool enough to handle, pull the meat from the bones. They should separate easily. Cut the meat and crispy skin into large pieces. Place them on a small plate and cover to keep warm.

Caramelized Oranges – Oranges Caramelises
© 2003 Susan Herrmann Loomis, Cooking with Susan Herrmann Loomis On Rue Tatin
A classic dessert, this one shines and crackles with caramel!

4 pounds (2 kg) oranges, preferably organic
2 tablespoons (30 g) light brown sugar

To candy the orange zest:
¾ cup (150 g) sugar
¾ cup (180ml) water

For the caramel:
½ cup (100 g) vanilla sugar
2 tablespoons hot water

Remove the zest from 1 orange and cut the strips into julienne.

1.  Prepare the candied zest: Bring the sugar and water to a boil in a small, heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium heat, stirring occasionally until the sugar dissolves. Add the orange zest, bring the syrup to a boil, and cook until the zest is translucent through, about 8 minutes. Using tongs or a slotted spoon, transfer the orange zest to a plate and let cool.

2.  Remove the pith from the two zested oranges, as well as the pith and the skin from the remaining oranges. Slice the oranges into ¼-inch (.65 cm) thick slices, and reserve the juice.

3.  Cover the bottom of a 6-cup (1.5 liter) serving dish or attractive soufflé dish with the first layer of oranges, and sprinkle them lightly with the brown sugar. Repeat, sprinkling equal amounts of sugar over each layer of the oranges except for the last layer. Pour the reserved juice over the oranges.

4.  Make the caramel: mix the sugar and the water and heat it over medium heat, rolling the pan so the mixture caramelizes evenly. Don’t be tempted to stir it once it is bubbling – it will gradually turn golden – you are looking for a deep golden color. The minute it is deep golden remove it from the heat and pour it evenly over the oranges. Let the oranges sit until the caramel has cooled and hardened, then cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours.

5.  Remove from the refrigerator, sprinkle the candied orange zest over the caramel, and serve immediately.

6 to 8 servings.