There's a Chef in My Kitchen
Culinary musings of an amateur chef and home to The Virtual Supper Club.
        

October Recipes

Classic Basil Pesto
© 2000 by Jerry Traunfeld,
The Herbfarm Cookbook
Makes 1 cup, enough to sauce 1 pound dried pasta

2 cloves garlic, peeled
3 tablespoons raw pine nuts
1/4 teaspoon salt
3 ounces stemmed sweet basil leaves (about 3 cups gently packed)
1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1/2 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

Food Processor Method
Process the garlic, pine nuts, and salt until finely ground, about 15 seconds. Add the basil leaves and process in spurts just until no whole leaves remain. With the machine running, pour the oil through the feed tube in a steady stream. Stop and scrape down the sides, then process for several more seconds. The mixture should be ground to a pastelike consistency but a little bit of the leaves' texture should remain. If necessary, quickly pulse the mixture again. Add the cheese and pulse until just incorporated.

Wilted Endives, Cranberries, and Yams
© 2001 by Gray Kunz and Peter Kaminsky, The Elements of Taste

There is bitter all over this recipe -- you have bitter endive, bitter in the almonds, and bitter in the cranberries -- but when all is said and done, it is not a bitter dish.  Instead, the bitterness in every case allies with a sweet, tangy, or salty component.  The point is, bitter never stands alone.  It is a taste that always needs a context in which to work, but given that context, it works like a charm. 

Our Taste Notes
The butter and sugar give off a sweet and fruity apple pie smell.  The endives and yams provide texture and crunch.  The cranberries are tangy, sweet, and bitter, all at once.  The bitter in the fruit works well with the bitter in the endives.  The lemon reinforces the cranberry tang.  The butter rounds out the distinct tastes and melds them.  A sweet aroma persists at the close.

Serves 4
Ingredients
6 endives, cut in 1/2-inch rounds, trimmed and rinsed
Juice of 1 1/2 lemons
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 tablespoon corn or other neutral vegetable oil
2 tablespoons sugar
3 tablespoons butter
1/2 medium yam, peeled and cut in a fine julienne
1/3 cup cranberries

Toss the endive slices, half the lemon juice, the salt, oil, and sugar together in a bowl.

Melt 1 tablespoon of the butter in a high-sided skillet over medium-high heat.  Add the endive mexture, stir to coat with butter, then cover.  Cook 2-3 minutes, lifting the cover to stir once or twice.  Add the yams and cranberries.  Cook 3-4 minutes, then add the remaining 2 tablespoons butter.  Reseason with the remaining lemon juice and additional salt and sugar if necessary, then serve. 

Cranberry Glaze
© 2001 by Gray Kunz and Peter Kaminsky, The Elements of Taste

This glaze takes advantage of the fruity, tart, and bitter combination in cranberries.  It is spectacular with venison or folded into red cabbage.  This combination has sweet fruitiness and tang from the cranberries and port.  There is earthy round sweetness from the maple syrup, floral notes from the lemon and orange, and aromatic spices to pull up all these tastes quickly and strongly.  Use as a dipping sauce with sauteed chicken breasts, roast turkey, or on a fresh baguette with butter.

Ingredients
1/2 cup white port
1/4 cup maple syrup
Zest of 1/2 lemon
Zest of 1/2 orange
4 Allspice berries
4 pieces star anise
1/2 stick cinnamon
Juice of 1 1/2 lemons
2 cups cranberries

Combine ingredients in a saucepan, except for the cranberries.  Bring to a boil.  Add one cup of cranberries and cook only until the berries pop.  Remove cooked berries and repeat with remaining cranberries.  Reduce liquid to a thick syrup and return cranberries to the sauce pan.

Chef's Notes:  When opting to use the recipe for a dipping sauce, rather than a glaze or garnish, cut the amount of berries in half, and perhaps even allow them to cook down a bit, infusing the port, maple and spiced syrup even more. For an added punch, I you might mash or puree some of the berries and add them into the reduced syrup.

Butternut Squash Gnocchi with Balsamic Brown Butter
Recipe courtesy Emeril Lagasse, 2002
Copyright © 2003 Television Food Network, G.P., All Rights Reserved

Recipe Summary
Prep Time: 45 minutes
Cook Time: 1 hour 10 minutes
Inactive Prep Time: 1 minute
Yield: 4 to 6 servings

1 butternut squash, about 2 pounds, halved lengthwise, seeds and fibers removed
2 tablespoons plus 1/4 cup olive oil
3 teaspoons salt
1/2 teaspoon white pepper
1/2 teaspoon finely chopped fresh oregano
1/2 teaspoon finely chopped fresh sage
1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg
2 1/2 cups all-purpose flour, plus more as needed

Balsamic Brown Butter:
2 sticks unsalted butter
1/4 cup minced shallots
1/4 cup balsamic vinegar
3 tablespoons chiffonade fresh sage
Salt

Garnishes:
Freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon chopped parsley
1 tablespoon chopped chives
Shaved Parmesan

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees F.

Rub the cut slices of the squash with 2 tablespoons of the olive oil and season with 1/2 teaspoon of the salt and 1/4 teaspoon of the white pepper. Set the squash, cut side down, on a baking sheet and roast until tender, 45 minutes to 1 hour. Remove from the oven. When cool enough to handle, scoop the flesh from the squash and place in a large bowl, discarding the skin. Mash into a chunky puree with a potato masher, then let cool, about 15 minutes.

Add the remaining 1/4 cup of olive oil, 1/2 teaspoon of the salt, remaining 1/4 teaspoon white pepper, oregano, chopped sage and nutmeg, and work into the warm squash. Sprinkle the flour over the mixture and using your hands, work into a smooth, soft dough. Cover the dough with a damp kitchen towel and let rest for 30 to 45 minutes.

Turn onto a lightly floured surface and divide into 4 equal portions. Roll each portion between your palms into a long rope, about 3/4-inch thick. If the rope won't hold together, return it to the bowl with the remaining dough and work in more flour, 1 teaspoon at a time, as needed. Cut each rope of dough into 3/4-inch long pieces. Press each piece against the tines of a floured fork, then drop into the lightly floured surface. (Gnocchi also can be placed in a single layer on a lightly floured baking sheet and refrigerated for several hours. Alternately, the gnocchi can be frozen for 1 hour then transferred to an airtight container and frozen for up to 1 month.)

In a large pot, bring 4 quarts of water and the remaining 2 teaspoons of salt to a low boil.

Add the gnocchi in batches and cook just until they float to the top, 1 1/2 to 2 minutes (or 3 minutes for frozen gnocchi.)

For the Balsamic Brown Butter: In a medium saucepan, cook the butter over medium heat until brown bits form and it has a nutty aroma, about 3 minutes. Remove from the heat and add the shallots, balsamic vinegar, and sage. Stir well. Adjust seasoning, to taste.

Remove the gnocchi from the water with a slotted spoon and dry on towels. Transfer to a large serving dish and gently toss to coat with the balsamic butter. Garnish with black pepper, parsley, chives, and shaved Parmesan.

Bosc Pear Carpaccio with Microgreens, Pecorino Romano, and Balsamico Tradizionale
© 2000 Alfred Portale, from Twelve Seasons Cookbook
Makes 4 Servings

The recipe calls for aged balsamic vinegar, a potent elixir that delivers a complex range of sweetness and acidity and should be used sparingly because of its power and its value. When purchasing balsamic vinegar, be sure the label bears the full designation, Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena. (This means it is produced in the town of Modena, the home of balsamic vinegar, though a few are also produced in the vicinity of Reggio.) A different, or abbreviated name usually indicates a lesser-quality vinegar with sugar or caramel added to imitate the effect of the real thing.

Special Equipment: Mandoline-type slicer
2 ripe Bosc pears
¼ cup extra virgin olive oil
4 teaspoons 25-year-old Balsamico Tradizionale vinegar
Coarse salt and freshly ground white pepper to taste
4 cups loosely packed microgreens
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
4 ounces Pecorino Romano cheese, in one piece

Halve the pears lengthwise and remove the core with a small scoop. Using a thin-bladed knife or a Japanese-style mandoline, slice the pear halves 1/8 inch thick. Fan each pear half on a chilled dinner plate.

Drizzle the pears with 1 tablespoon of the olive oil and the balsamic vinegar. Season them lightly with salt and pepper.

In a small bowl, toss the greens with the remaining 3 tablespoons of olive oil and the lemon juice. Season them with salt and pepper. Arrange a bouquet of greens on top of each pear half.

Using a vegetable peeler, finish each plate with curls of Pecorino Romano. Serve Immediately.

Variations: A blue cheese, such as Roquefort or Gorgonzola, will work brilliantly here in place of the Pecorino Romano. The sweetness of the pears and the balsamic vinegar will match the saltiness of the cheese bite for bite. Also, while Bosc pears are recommended for their crispiness and reliability, other pears, such as Bartlett and Anjou, will work well, too.

If you’re not using balsamic vinegar, substitute a mixture of 1 teaspoon red wine vinegar and 3 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil, which will soften the vinegar, taking the edge off its acidity. 

Herb-Crusted Pork Tenderloin 

You will need enough finely chopped herbs to season this generous crust on the pork, but if you use only potent herbs, the flavor will be overly strong. Here, bread crumbs and parsley combined, make up the majority of the mixture in this recipe. Parsley is bulk—it contributes flavor to the dish, but you can use quantities of it without its flavor taking over.

Serves 6 to 8

Ingredients:

1 2 ½ to 3 lb pork tenderloin, trimmed

For the brine:
8 cups water
1/2 cup kosher salt
1/2 cup sugar

For the herb crust:
4 cups fresh breadcrumbs made from French bread
1 cup dried breadcrumbs
1 cup chopped fresh parsley
1 tablespoon chopped fresh rosemary
1 tablespoon fresh thyme
1 teaspoon chopped fresh sage
About 4 tablespoons Parmigiano Reggiano, freshly grated
2 large eggs, beaten to blend
1/2 tablespoon garlic, minced

4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) butter
2 tablespoons olive oil

Cider Syrup (recipe follows)

Prepare the brine:
Mix the water, salt and sugar together in a large shallow bowl until dissolved. Marinate the pork in the brine for 2 hours. When ready to use, remove pork from brine, and pat dry.

Prepare the herb crust:
In the bowl of a food processor, combine ½ of the fresh breadcrumbs and the herbs (parsley, rosemary, thyme). Process until the herbs are finely minced. Add the remaining fresh bread crumbs, grate about 4 tablespoons Parmigiano Reggiano into work bowl, and process until all ingredients are well combined. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Prepare the pork tenderloin:
Transfer the herbed breadcrumbs into a large shallow bowl. Dip the tenderloin into the eggs, then into the breadcrumb mixture pressing firmly and rolling, coating all sides of the meat with a thick layer. Place the tenderloin on a piece of plastic wrap; sprinkle the minced garlic on top and any herbed bread crust that does not stick. Wrap the herbed tenderloin tightly in plastic wrap and refrigerate for 4 hours (or more).

Cook pork tenderloin:

Preheat oven to 375°F.

Melt 4 tablespoons butter and 2 tablespoon oil in heavy large skillet over medium-high heat.
Unwrap the herb crusted tenderloin. Using tongs, carefully lower the pork into the pan. Sear the pork, until the herbs on all sides turn a deep golden brown color, about 5 minutes per side. Be patient—don’t turn the meat until the crust has lost all green color. Place on rack set in large roasting pan. Roast pork until crust is golden and thermometer inserted into center registers 155°F, about 25 to 30 minutes.

Remove the pork from the oven, transfer it to a cutting board, cover very loosely with aluminum foil, and let it rest for 5 to 10 minutes. Slice pork and serveServe with 1 tablespoon Cider Syrup

Cider Syrup
Adapted from: 
© Copyright Southern Progress Corporation, 2000.
Originally published in Cooking Light Magazine, December 1999

INGREDIENT:
4 cups apple cider, divided

INSTRUCTIONS:
Bring cider to a boil in a small saucepan over medium-high heat. Cook until reduced to 1/2 cup (about 20 minutes); cool. Cover and chill.

Serving size: 1 tablespoon syrup; Recipe Yields about 16 servings and can be used for plating, also.

Caramelized Oranges – Oranges Caramelises
© 2003 Susan Herrmann Loomis, Cooking with Susan Herrmann Loomis On Rue Tatin
A classic dessert, this one shines and crackles with caramel!

4 pounds (2 kg) oranges, preferably organic
2 tablespoons (30 g) light brown sugar

To candy the orange zest
:
¾ cup (150 g) sugar
¾ cup (180ml) water

For the caramel
:
½ cup (100 g) vanilla sugar
2 tablespoons hot water

Remove the zest from 1 orange and cut the strips into julienne.

1.  Prepare the candied zest: Bring the sugar and water to a boil in a small, heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium heat, stirring occasionally until the sugar dissolves. Add the orange zest, bring the syrup to a boil, and cook until the zest is translucent through, about 8 minutes. Using tongs or a slotted spoon, transfer the orange zest to a plate and let cool.

2.  Remove the pith from the two zested oranges, as well as the pith and the skin from the remaining oranges. Slice the oranges into ¼-inch (.65 cm) thick slices, and reserve the juice.

3.  Cover the bottom of a 6-cup (1.5 liter) serving dish or attractive soufflé dish with the first layer of oranges, and sprinkle them lightly with the brown sugar. Repeat, sprinkling equal amounts of sugar over each layer of the oranges except for the last layer. Pour the reserved juice over the oranges.

4.  Make the caramel: mix the sugar and the water and heat it over medium heat, rolling the pan so the mixture caramelizes evenly. Don’t be tempted to stir it once it is bubbling – it will gradually turn golden – you are looking for a deep golden color. The minute it is deep golden remove it from the heat and pour it evenly over the oranges. Let the oranges sit until the caramel has cooled and hardened, then cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours.

5.  Remove from the refrigerator, sprinkle the candied orange zest over the caramel, and serve immediately.

6 to 8 servings.

Butternut Bisque
© Copyright Southern Progress Corporation, 2000.
Originally published in Cooking Light Magazine, December 1999

INGREDIENTS:
2 large butternut squash (about 4-1/2 pounds)
1/2 cup grated peeled fresh ginger (or substitute 2 tablespoons orange juice)
3 cups water
2-1/2 cups thinly sliced leek (about 4 large)
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 cup whole milk

INSTRUCTIONS:
Preheat oven to 400 degrees.

Cut squash in half lengthwise; discard seeds and membrane. Place squash halves, cut sides down, on a baking sheet; bake at 400 degrees for 1 hour or until tender. Cool. Remove pulp; set aside.

Place grated ginger on several layers of paper towels. Gather the edges of paper towels together; squeeze paper towel bag over a small bowl, reserving ginger juice. Discard solids. Set aside.

Combine 1-1/2 cups cider, water, leek, and salt in a Dutch oven. Bring to a boil. Cover, reduce heat, and simmer 40 minutes or until leek is soft.

Add squash, ginger juice, and milk to leek mixture, stirring well. Cook 15 minutes. Place half of squash mixture in a blender or food processor; process until smooth. Pour pureed squash mixture into a large bowl. Repeat procedure with remaining squash mixture. Return pureed squash mixture to pan. Keep warm.

Ladle soup into bowls; drizzle with cider syrup.

YIELD:  8 servings (serving size: 1 cup soup and 1 tablespoon syrup)

(Check back for recipes from the Neiman Marcus Cookbook (Clarkson Potter, 2003)

Black Peppercorn Butter
© Copyright Michael Smith and Debbie Golds, reprinted in Bon Appetit, September 2000.

1 14 ½-ounce can low-salt chicken broth
¼ cup brandy
½ cup (1 stick) butter, room temperature
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1 tablespoon chopped shallot
1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme

Combine broth and peppercorns in small saucepan. Cover and simmer 30 minutes. Uncover and simmer until mixture is reduced to ¼ cup, about 15 minutes. Add brandy; simmer until mixture is reduced to 3 tablespoons, about 10 minutes. Cool. Blend peppercorn mixture, butter, lemon juice, shallot and thyme in food processor until peppercorns are finely chopped.

Can be made 2 days ahead. Chill. Use at room temperature. Or, freeze; thaw before using.

Chef’s Note: Use this butter with steak or on baked potatoes.

Sun-dried Tomato-Olive Butter
© Copyright 1998, Judy Wicks and Kevin Von Klause, from the White Dog Cafe Cookbook
Makes about ½ pound

A rich compound butter with flecks of sun-dried tomatoes and kalamata olives makes a simple bowl of white bean soup luscious. It also adds moistness and sweet-tart flavor to chicken when placed under the skin before roasting or grilling. Use it for topping baked potatoes for an extra treat.

¼ pound (1 stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature
¼ cup minced rehydrated sun-dried tomatoes
¼ cup minced pitted kalamata olives
1 tablespoon minced seeded lemon (the peel and the pulp)
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1.  Combine all the ingredients in a small bowl and mix until no hard lumps of butter remain in the mixture.

2.  Spoon the butter onto a piece of parchment or plastic wrap and shape into a log about 2 inches in diameter. Roll up tightly and refrigerate until firm. Slice into ¼-inch medallions. (The butter can be prepared in advance and frozen for up to 1 month.)

Spiced Butter
© 1997 Alfred Portale, from Gotham Bar and Grill cookbook, Butternut Squash Risotto, Maple-Smoked Bacon, and Sage.

Part of the recipe’s impact derives from the spiced butter that finishes it with a powerful dose of garlic, chervil, marjoram, cinnamon, and ginger.

Thinking ahead: The spiced butter may be prepared up to 8 hours in advance, covered and refrigerated.

8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature
4 tablespoons Roasted Garlic Puree (recipe in October Edition)
2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh chervil
1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh marjoram
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
¼ teaspoon ground ginger
Coarse salt and freshly ground white pepper to taste

In a small bowl, combine all the ingredients. Cover and set aside at room temperature.

Honey Pecan Butter
1 stick butter (salted or unsalted)
½ cup honey
1/3 cup toasted, chopped pecans

In a small work bowl, combine all the ingredients. Cover and refrigerate until firm. Or, freeze. Thaw before using.

Chef’s Notes: This is a wonderful accompaniment to pastry and breads, or serve with waffles or pancakes.



© Copyright 2004 Donna Marie Zotter. Click here to send an email to the editor of this weblog.
Last update: 3/9/04; 10:40:02 PM.