The Blackstone 2001 Napa Valley Merlot rated between 85 and 89 in Wine Spectator and Wine Enthusiast, respectively. I am happy to say, though still young, this fruit forward blend of Merlot and Syrah was silky smooth. The color was deep and rich, with black cherry, cinnamon and nutmeg notes. The wine had enough fruit and structure to balance the assertive flavors of the smoked bacon, double turkey stock, spiced butter and the caramelized squash that went into the risotto.

From When the wine gods smile on me… posted November 12, 2003

…just this weekend in a colonial-styled restaurant, not too far from Lancaster, Pennsylvania, I was delighted and surprised with Wine Spectator’s #1 rated 1999 vintage wine for 2002: Chateau St. Jean, Cinq Cépages. This gorgeous cabernet of (76% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc, 4% Malbec, and 2% Petit Verdot) had a velvety ruby-purple color to match the sweet bouquet of lush ripe black cherries. It opened up to reveal herby notes of olive and sage. Structured but not rigid, this wine had depth and richness. Bold enough to pay attention to, but so well balanced, this medium-bodied wine was subtle enough to share center stage with our meal.

From an amateur chef’s night off… posted November 19, 2003

the Iron Horse 2000 Estate Pinot Noir, Green Valley, may give a bold Italian red a run for the money. The winery boasts this vintage is its finest to date, and with the extraordinary depth of character the wine opens to, they may be dead on the money.

As a classic, well-made Pinot Noir tends to be, this one is elegant, silky and wonderful to drink. The grapes for this wine came from six distinct sites in Iron Horse's Green Valley vineyard. These lots, blended together make what Iron Horse calls "a very expressive, stylish wine."

As a Pinot Noir, this one will surprise you with its smoke and oak notes, that dance between ripe fruit -- dark cherries and berries. All this is balanced with notes of clove, and an earthy woodsy, leathery and vanilla nose that makes this wine a sensory delight. The mouth feel is rich and supple, supported by the bright acidity that carries the flavors to a full, long finish. Yes. I did say it is a Pinot Noir.

From Beaujolais Nouveaus… posted November 25, 2003

Wine. The very thought of it conjures up all sorts of images for me. Elegance, passion – the fervor of a winemaker striving to draw out the very best that a vineyard offers. A wine dinner to celebrate the release of a new vintage elevates my thoughts to artisinal foods and a room energized with an ambiance of seriousness... of expectation… of a desire to understand the romance between the wine and the winemaker. Well, except for five days in November.

At one minute past midnight on the third Thursday of each November, from little villages and towns in Beaujolais, over a million cases of Beaujolais Nouveau begin their journey through a sleeping France to Paris for immediate shipment to all parts of the world… or so the story goes. Today, these wines are available literally within hours of the first bottles being opened in Beaujolais. And, with that, the frivolity and spirited rituals that accompany the arrival of this wine begin around the world.

Monday evening, on the last night of the traditional five days of celebration, I met with friends to break open our bottles and once again welcome this lighthearted tradition. Banging on tambourines and shaking noisemakers, we shouted "Il arrive Nouveau!" off the front porch all the while giggling like little girls. We then retreated to the kitchen where we prepared a simple but delicious meal. We started with Camembert – because it's French, of course, warmed with a brown sugar, butter and slivered almond topping. We served it with red grapes (naturally), and a round of French (what else?) country bread. A salad of mixed green and a honey Dijon (Dijon is French, of course) vinaigrette, and a Mediterranean styled chicken that was colorful and aromatic with the fresh oregano and basil from my friend's garden.

Beaujolais Nouveau is not meant to be a serious, mature or complex wine. It is fresh, simple, and bouncy. It is easy to serve and easy to drink. It certainly set the mood for our dinner. We chilled our bottles of Georges Duboeuf down, since the slight chill is said to enhance the berry flavors of the wine.

The Beaujolais Nouveau is meant to be consumed within weeks of the harvest, but with careful cellaring, it is said to be drinkable in April or May. Why? I ask. With Thanksgiving and the official start of the holidays arriving this week, why not open something that is all about the fun and gaiety of the season. The Nouveaus pair nicely with most foods – cheese and bread, roasted meat or poultry, and eggs (the French serve it with omelets). It’s an unassuming kind of celebration unto itself.

This year the Nouveau is rich and fat, with outstanding color and structure – for a Nouveau, that is. A frosty Beaujolais spring, windstorms in May and a summer of oppressive heat meant smaller crops and a smaller production of the wine. The heat and lack of rain may have reduced the size of the crop, but they enhanced the quality of the grapes, producing high sugar, concentrated flavors, deep color and superb maturity. And though this tradition of racing the grape from the vineyard to the glass may not be quite the serious winemaking we attribute to the French, it is fun to be a part of a celebration that is taking place in homes, cafes, restaurants, pubs and bars around the world.

Beaujolais producers have compared the 2003 vintage to legendary years like 1989, 1976, 1947 and 1929. Georges Duboeuf, known as the king of Beaujolais, even said that 2003 could well be his finest vintage. After a couple of bottles last night, I don’t think that any of us would disagree. Besides, we were having too much fun.