Once I manage to restore order to my kitchen, and my thoughts turn back to cooking, inevitably I’m looking for recipes that are a bit more clean in flavor, and certainly a bit more healthy, than the rich recipes I’ve been cooking from. No, I’m not talking about a New Year’s resolution to eat better (or less, for that matter). I’m just in the mood for good food that’s not overly rich but still has a lot of flavor. Recipes that become meals when served with a simple salad of fresh greens, or can go a second round for a take-to-work lunch the next day. And, not to be too picky, but it is after all January. I want recipes that are homey and comforting, but in a grown-up kind of way.

It took some doing, but I think I’ve found a terrific collection that is all that. And so, won’t you join me in preparing The Virtual Supper Club’s January Edition. A menu filled with clean flavors and fresh ideas for healthy cooking… with a few grown-up styled comforts tossed in for good measure.

The Virtual Supper Club’s January Menu:

Sensitive New Age Sloppy Joe with sweet & spicy tofu and pinto beans;
Tuna Burgers, with
     "Fried" Onions,
     Yogurt Sauce with Toasted Spices, Lime Zest and Basil,
     Roasted Garlic Aïoli or 
    Cilantro and Coconut Chutney;
Deluxe Mac ‘n Cheese with crispy pine nut-herb crust
Savoury Bread Pudding with mixed mushrooms, leeks and Gruyère cheese.

A Healthy Approach to Comfort Foods…

Obviously presentation is not an issue here, but bold flavours are, so be generous with seasoning. This dish also makes a delicious chili-like sauce that is great with brown rice (a protein powerhouse!), or accompanied with fresh cornbread and a crunchy vegetable slaw.

Yields ½ cup (120 mL)

1 x 7 oz (198 g) can chipotle chiles in adobo sauce

1. Purée contents of the can. Transfer to a clean glass jar and refrigerate.

Helpful Hint:  Add chipotle purée to the following:
* Beaten eggs before scrambling
* Softened butter for corn on the cob
* Stirred into cornbread batter
* Tomato sauce, for pizza or pasta
* Mayonnaise, for sandwiches
* Macaroni & cheese
* Mashed into hummus
* Stirred into squash, bean or corn soups
* Beaten into whipped cream (just kidding!!)

Serves 4

One 3-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and cut in 3 pieces
1 ½ pounds tuna steaks
3 tablespoons minced scallions
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh cilantro
¼ teaspoon minced garlic
1 ½ teaspoons minced jalapeño chile
Pinch of sugar
¼ teaspoon kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1 ½ teaspoons low-sodium soy sauce
2 teaspoons Asian sesame oil
2 tablespoons sesame seeds (optional)

With a chef’s knife, finely chop the tuna on a cutting board.

Press the ginger in a garlic press, catching the pulp in a small bowl, or finely grate it. Add 1 teaspoon of ginger to the tuna, along with the scallions, cilantro, garlic, jalapeño, sugar, salt, pepper to taste, the soy sauce, and 1 teaspoon of the sesame oil.

With wet hands, shape the tuna into 4 equal patties. Place on a cookie sheet and freeze for 10 minutes to firm up the flesh.

Brush the patties with the remaining 1 teaspoon sesame oil. Sprinkle on both side with the sesame seeds, if using, and pat them into the burgers.

To panfry the burgers: Heat a large nonstick skillet over high heat until very hot. Add the burgers and cook for 2 minutes on each side, or until deep brown on the outside but still rare on the inside.

To grill: Place on a grill over hot coals and cook for 1 ½ to 2 minutes on each side. Serve at once.

Panfried onions, tender and caramelized, are a greasy-spoon and steakhouse favorite. To enjoy fried onions prepared with much less fat, cook the onions in a small amount of butter in a covered nonstick skillet, a process called sweating, so they release some of their juices and soften. Then remove the lid to let all that moisture evaporate, caramelizing them. Since sautéed or fried onions are called for in many recipes – in soups, stews, pasta, or as a pizza topping – this is an essential technique.

Makes about 2 cups; Serves 4

1 ½ pounds Vidalia or Bermuda onions, peeled
2 teaspoons unsalted butter
¾ teaspoon kosher salt
½ teaspoon sugar
Freshly ground black pepper

Slice the onions in half through the stem. With a mandoline or vegetable slicer, or a thin sharp knife, cut lengthwise into 1/8-inch slices. (You should have about 6 cups.)

In a large nonstick skillet, melt the butter over moderately low heat. Add the onions, sprinkle with ½ teaspoon of the salt, and toss to coat. Cover and cook until the onions have released some liquid, about 13 minutes.

Uncover the pan, increase the heat to moderate, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the liquid has evaporated, about 10 minutes. Sprinkle the onions with the sugar and continue cooking, stirring frequently, until they are golden brown and caramelized, about 10 minutes longer. Add the remaining ¼ teaspoon salt and season generously with pepper. Serve warm.

In Advance: Up to 4 hours ahead, cook the onions for the first 23 minutes, or until the liquid has evaporated. Set aside at room temperature. Ten to 15 minutes before serving, caramelize the onions. The cooked onions can be refrigerated, covered, for up to 4 days.

This deceptively simple recipe from chef Gray Kunz is an example of the magic of a few well-chosen ingredients artfully combined. The flavor of the yogurt is essential to the sauce and provides the base for an unusual combination of flavors: cumin, coriander, and cardamom in league with fresh basil, lime and jalapeño.

Use whole-milk yogurt for this sauce, preferably sheep’s milk yogurt, which is extremely creamy and luxurious. The acidity and lack of body typical of nonfat and many low-fat yogurts would undermine the sauce. NOTE: To duplicate whole-milk yogurt, mix equal parts low-fat yogurt and regular or reduced-fat sour cream.

Makes 1 cup

Scant ½ teaspoon cumin seeds
4 coriander seeds
Seeds from 1 cardamom pod
1 cup whole-milk or sheep’s milk yogurt
8 fresh basil leaves, finely chopped
½ small serrano or jalapeño chile, seeded and minced
1 teaspoon finely grated lime zest
1/8 teaspoon sugar
Pinch of kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper

In a small skillet, toast the cumin, coriander, and cardamom seeds over moderate heat until fragrant. Set aside to cool slightly.

In a blender or a spice grinder, grind the toasted spices to a fine powder. Strain the powder through a fine sieve into a small bowl.

In a medium bowl, combine the yogurt, basil, jalapeño, lime zest, sugar, and ½ teaspoon of the spice powder or more to taste. Stir in the salt and pepper to taste. Refrigerate for 30 minutes before serving to let the flavors marry.

In Advance: This sauce is best served the day it is made, but it will keep for up to 2 days in the refrigerator with a slight fading of flavor.

Here is a lightened version of the French aïoli using roasted garlic puree and a paste made of milk-soaked bread to provide the thickening normally achieved by an emulsion of egg yolks and olive oil, at a savings of hundreds of calories of oil. You need only a quarter of the usual amount of extra-virgin olive oil to give it the requisite unctuous texture and olivey flavor. Adding a little raw garlic that has been mashed in a mortar gives the sauce the fresh, pungent garlicky flavor of true aïoli.

Makes about 1 ¼ cups

3 to 5 garlic cloves, peeled
About ½ teaspoon kosher salt
1 slice white bread, torn into 1-inch pieces
¼ cup unsalted homemade or canned low-sodium chicken broth or fat-free milk
½ cup plus 2 tablespoons Roasted Garlic Puree (from 3 large heads garlic) (Roast whole heads of garlic (papery white skin removed) drizzled with oil and seasoned with salt at 400°F, allowed to cool; extract pulp, then mashed with a fork.)
¼ cup fruity extra-virgin olive oil, or more to taste
Freshly ground black pepper
Squeeze of fresh lemon juice

Put the garlic in a mortar, sprinkle with the salt, and mash to a smooth paste. Alternatively, mash the garlic to a paste right on the work surface. Using a chef’s knife, mince the garlic with the salt: Placing the flat side of the knife almost parallel to the work surface, mash the garlic a little at a time by crushing and smearing it against the cutting board until it is completely reduced to a paste. Set aside.

In a food processor, reduce the bread to fine crumbs. Remove the lid, drizzle the chicken broth over the bread crumbs, and toss with a fork – do not process – until they are just moistened. Let sit for a few minutes, until the crumbs become soft paste.

Add the roasted garlic puree and process the mixture to a fine puree, about 1 minute. With the motor running, add the reserved garlic, then dribble in 3 tablespoons of olive oil. Add pepper to taste and the lemon juice. Transfer to a bowl.

Just before serving, stir in the remaining olive oil, without incorporating it completely.

In Advance: The aïoli can be kept in a tightly sealed container in the refrigerator for up to 4 days.

This refreshing uncooked chutney is one step beyond the cool cilantro sauce I find myself spooning onto every dish at Indian restaurants. The vibrant flavor of fresh cilantro and hot chiles is mellowed and cooled by unsweetened coconut milk, which provides creaminess. Shredded coconut gives it a pleasing coarse texture. This sauce is perfect with grilled chicken and seafood, particularly shrimp, lobster, and salmon.

Makes 1 cup

1 large bunch cilantro (about 4 ounces)
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
1 jalapeño or 2 serrano chiles, quartered lengthwise, seeded and deveined
½ plus 1/8 teaspoon kosher salt
¾ teaspoon sugar
½ cup canned unsweetened coconut milk
1 tablespoon fresh lime juice
½ to 1 teaspoon white wine vinegar
2 tablespoons shredded coconut

Cut the tough stems off the cilantro at the point where the leaves begin, and discard. Wash the cilantro sprigs and dry well in a salad spinner. Coarsely chop them and set aside.

In a small heavy skillet, toast the cumin seeds over low heat, stirring, until fragrant and slightly darkened. Crush the seeds in a mortar and pestle. Or place on a cutting board and crush with the side of a chef’s knife.

In a food processor, combine the jalapeño, cilantro, cumin seeds, salt, and sugar and pulse until chopped medium fine, about 1 minute. Add the coconut milk, lime juice, and vinegar and process it to a medium-coarse puree. Scrape into a bowl, stir in the coconut, and serve.

In Advance: Although it is best freshly made, the chutney will keep, covered and refrigerated, for 2 to 3 days.

Comfort Foods with a twist…

Comfort food is Audrey’s forte in the kitchen. She does wonders with simple, clean ingredients, giving them her special touch and achieving spectacular flavour. Some cooks just have a knack for making something as basic as macaroni and cheese a dish to get excited about. Here is a jazzy adult version that is loaded with garlic, fresh herbs and a crispy crust. Kids will love this one too.

Serves 10

6 cups dry pasta shapes, we use serpentini
1/4 cup (60mL) olive oil
1 large yellow onion, minced
2 tsp (10 mL) salt
8 garlic cloves, minced
1/3 cup (80 mL) chopped oregano
2 tbsp (30 mL) chopped thyme
½ cup (120 mL) chopped Italian parsley
¼ cup (60 mL) butter
3 ½ cups (840 mL) milk
¼ cup (60 mL) unbleached flour
4 cups (960 mL) grated aged white cheddar
4 cups (960 mL) fresh breadcrumbs
1 cup (240 mL) grated Parmesan
½ cup (120 mL) pine nuts

1. Cook pasta in boiling, salted water until just done. Strain and toss with a light coating of olive oil. Set aside or refrigerate. (This step can be done one day in advance.)

2. Meanwhile, heat 1 tbsp olive oil in a small skillet and sauté onion for 5 minutes. Add half of the minced garlic, ½ tsp salt and sauté until the garlic turns golden. Transfer to a small bowl and stir in half of the chopped herbs. Set aside.

3. Next, make a roux for the cheese sauce. Gently heat the milk and keep it warm. Set a saucepan over medium heat and melt the butter. Sprinkle in flour and whisk constantly as the flour and butter turn golden. Gradually add the warm milk and 1 tsp salt and whisk thoroughly. Heat until the sauce thickens (about 10 minutes). Add the sautéed onion/herb mix, grated cheese and stir until the cheese melts. Season to taste.

4. Finally, make the topping. Combine the breadcrumbs with the remaining garlic, herbs, Parmesan, pine nuts, ½ tsp salt, plenty of cracked pepper and the remaining 3 tbsp olive oil. Mix together thoroughly.

5. Pre-heat the oven to 350° F. To assemble, combine the noodles and cheese sauce in a large bowl and mix well. Pour into an oiled 8" x 12" baking dish. Scatter the topping over the entire surface, working some of it into the noodles. Bake uncovered until golden and bubbly (about 45 minutes). Serve piping hot.

Helpful hint:  For a delicious variation, substitute the cheddar cheese with a mix of fontina and mozzarella, or asiago and Monterrey Jack.

No reason to limit this dish to the dinner hour. Serve it for lunch or Sunday brunch with a light salad. Spruce it up for dinner with steamed Brussels sprouts tossed in Dijon-shallot butter, or green beans tossed with hazelnut oil and orange zest. Use a good quality multigrain or sourdough bread for best results, and don’t hesitate to replace the vegetables and herbs with your favourites, as bread pudding is very forgiving.

Serves 8 – 10

3 tbsp (45 mL) butter
3 medium leeks, mostly whites
½ tsp (2.5 mL) salt
8 garlic cloves, minced
1 ½ lb (675 g) assorted mushrooms (button, shiitake, oyster, portabello), sliced
Cracked pepper
½ cup (120 mL) Madeira

Custard
5 eggs
1 cup (240 mL) whipping cream
1 cup (240 mL) milk
½ tsp (2.5 mL) salt
½ tsp (2.5 mL) cracked pepper
1 x 1 lb (450 g) multigrain or sourdough loaf, cut into ¾" cubes
2 tbsp (30 mL) thyme leaves
2 tbsp (30 mL) minced sage
4 cups (960 mL) grate Gruyère cheese
Minced chives for garnish

1. Heat 1 tbsp butter in a large skillet and sauté the leeks and garlic with a pinch of salt until the leeks are soft. Set aside, then melt the remaining butter in the pan. Add all of the mushrooms, season with salt and pepper, cover and cook until the mushrooms have released their juices. Remove the lid and continue to cook until the mushrooms begin to sear. Deglaze with Madeira and let the liquid evaporate. Stir the mushrooms with leeks and set aside while you prepare the custard.

2. Beat the eggs in a large bowl. Whisk in the cream, milk, salt and pepper. Stir in the bread cubes, cover and let stand for 1 hour. Stir occasionally to ensure that all the bread soaks evenly. Stir in the herbs, mushroom-leek mixture and half of the grated cheese.

3. Heat the oven to 350° F. Butter a 9" x 13" baking dish and spoon the bread pudding mixture into the pan. Sprinkle with reserved cheese and bake until crusty and golden brown and set in the middle (about 45 minutes). Sprinkle with minced chives. Let stand for several minutes, cut into squares and serve hot.